Boo

After greasing the rear linkage on my Honda XR250 BAJA, I rode to the Ichitani Reconstruction Memorial in Ishikawa. The harsh thud became a soft float, but a new floaty-rear issue appeared. Plus the story of a 1965 landslide.

How I stripped, cleaned and greased the rear linkage on my Honda XR250 BAJA (MD30) with an Antlion lowering arm: a loose lock nut, a lost grease nipple, a seized THK pillow ball, the grease I used and rod end covers.

How I took the flat battery out of my Honda XR250 BAJA (MD30), charged it with a CTEK JS800, and used a 1 mm rubber strip so the terminal nuts no longer drop out of reach. Plus why a seven-year-old battery only works because of the kick-start.

A summary of my XR250 BAJA (MD30) front fork overhaul: the order of the work, re-plating costs, spring differences between the XR250, BAJA and XR250R, mixing fork oil to match Honda's viscosity, and axle thread sizes by year.

How I stripped the front forks on my Honda XR250 BAJA (MD30) step by step: the tools you need, removing the top cap, using a 27 mm damper holder to undo the centre bolt, and separating the inner and outer tubes.

Having owned three singles (DT200WR, XR250 BAJA, G650GS) and three twins (Transalp 400V, TDM900A, X-ADV), I compare pulse, hand vibration, weight and ease of maintenance from real riding.

Riding over Shinminato Bridge in Imizu, Toyama, and back on my X-ADV, with photos and video: the coast road on Route 415, views 47 m above the sea, the Kaiwomaru sailing ship, and the stop sign to watch.

Why I rely on a Tohnichi QL25N-MH torque wrench (5–25 N·m, ±3%) for engine work, brake bolts and small bolts: why torque matters on aluminium parts, calibration, the click, and why you'll still need a high-torque wrench.

How I cleaned the fuse box on my XR250 BAJA (MD30): where it is, the sand and dirty terminals I found, cleaning the fuses with contact restorer, and why the thin cotton swabs I bought didn't fit.

My motorcycle route from Toyama City to Shomyodaira Parking below Shomyo Falls (350 m), with photos and video: easy roads with few traffic lights, the 500 m Akushiro Wall, a 30-minute walk to the viewpoint, and Shomyo Road's opening times.

My X-ADV dirt protection and maintenance in one place: where it gets dirty on wet roads, a fender extender and Puig splash guard, Zero Finish care, the first oil change with two filters (3.4 L) and removing fairing panels without breaking tabs.

All the parts I've fitted to my X-ADV in one place: screens, GIVI carriers and E23N side cases (about 100 cm wide), a D-UNIT WR power supply, an M820WD dashcam and a KDR-M11CPJ phone holder, with what I wish I'd known first.

How I cleaned the cramped rear spoked wheel of my 2026 X-ADV with Surluster Zero Finish and a microfibre cloth: spray onto the cloth, keep it off the tyre and brake disc, and pull both ends of the cloth around each spoke.

After fitting Honda's genuine knuckle guard extension to my 2026 X-ADV, the wind on my fingertips was gone, but at around 16°C in summer gloves I still used the heated grips. Who it suits, and who it doesn't.

How I fitted Honda's genuine knuckle guard extension 08P72-MKS-E00ZB to my 2026 X-ADV: only a 5 mm hex and a ratchet, the well-nut washer that's easy to forget, the 0.4 N·m torque, and no interference at full lock.

A cheap traffic cone makes a funnel-shaped media container for DIY baking soda blasting with a Karcher: drilling, reaming and sealing the hose in.

DIY soda blasting with a Karcher, part 5: a shorter PVC container, sealed joints and a 1.5 m hose finally cleaned the carbon off my XR250 pistons.

DIY soda blasting with a Karcher, part 4: the rust came off, but it took an hour. Why the soda wouldn't feed: a leaky partition, damp clogs and air leaks.

DIY soda blasting with a Karcher, part 3: moving the hose to the bottom of the container to use gravity plus vacuum, with a perforated partition.

DIY soda blasting with a Karcher pressure washer, part 1: why the baking soda wouldn't feed, and building a funnel-shaped container from PVC pipe.