Boo

Removing the seat on a BMW G650GS: unlock the lid behind the rear carrier, push the red lever forwards, then lift the seat up and back. Photos show where the seat locates and how the latch works.

Part 2 of rebuilding my XR250 BAJA forks: taping the inner tube, greasing seal lips, using a fork seal driver without scratching the tube, fitting the snap ring, and tightening the ME08 centre bolt while holding the cylinder.

Changing the oil and filter on my BMW G650GS: a home-made 22 mm filler cap tool, draining the dry-sump oil tank with an extractor, a plastic-bottle drip guide for the filter, torque figures and how much oil came out versus the manual's 2.3 L.

Stripping a used spare starter motor for my Honda XR250 BAJA: the tools you need, the two 10 mm terminal nuts, washers you can't buy separately, the BC1693G oil seal, and checking the brushes against the 8.5 mm limit.

A 25,000 km rear sprocket laid over a new Esjot 44T to show tooth wear, then the swap on my BMW G650GS: 13 mm bolts and nuts, rusty bolts on an 11-year-old bike, torque wrench and paint-marker checks.

The Honda XR250 BAJA uses M6 x 22 mm flange bolts in 11 places under six part numbers. I bought them all and compared finish, size across the flats and strength, with a table of where each one goes.

Removing both silencers on my BMW G650GS before fitting an Öhlins rear shock: the 15 mm exhaust clamp, taking the side cover off first, and using silicone spray on the rubber-mounted fixings so they pull out easily.

Final assembly of my XR250 BAJA front forks: a home-made oil level gauge set to 107 mm, cleaning WPC-treated springs before fitting, and swapping the 1.56 mm washer between the springs for a 4.00 mm thrust bearing.

Why I replaced the stock mirrors on my BMW G650GS with TANAX Napoleon Ridge mirrors, a side-by-side height comparison, and the tools needed to fit them (17 mm spanner, 8 mm and 3 mm hex keys).

How I recreated the faded G650 sticker on my BMW G650GS cowl for about 1,500 yen: tracing a photo, printing on outdoor sticker paper with UV film, a sizing lesson for recessed stickers, and legal points for personal use.

I bought an unbranded smoked screen for my Honda X-ADV at auction for its upturned spoiler lip. A side-by-side shape comparison with the stock screen, plus cleaning and coating it with Plexus before fitting.

The design weaknesses of the air-cooled Honda XR250 and BAJA: heat soak in summer traffic, dry-sump oil checks, a tall seat, headlights fixed to the frame, weak electrics and limited luggage space.

To stop oil flung off the rear sprocket from coating the mudguard, silencer and panniers of my G650GS, I extended the chain guard with a 2 mm foam PP sheet. Materials, shaping and fitting.

How I clean the exposed fork inner tubes on my BMW G650GS with VuPlex, why to wipe around the tube rather than up and down, and the flaking chrome and rust pit I found.

After fitting heavier DACHI stainless steel front spokes, my XR250 BAJA's front end felt more planted. Thinking it over, the real cause was probably a heavy 43-litre top box and unadjusted rear preload.

Before blasting my fork outer tubes, I tested baking soda blasting with a Karcher on a gold anodised aluminium part I didn't mind ruining. The result: the finish came off.

Fitting Dakar fork boots to F650GS (single) front forks I plan to put on my G650GS: inner tube 41 mm, outer tube 60 mm, which way the vent hole faces, and XR BAJA bands.

How I change the oil on my Honda XR250 BAJA: removing the skid plate, the crankcase and frame drain bolts of the dry sump, filling in two stages, and adding 0.1 litre for the oil cooler.

How I pressed new NTN 6202LLU bearings into the front hub of my Honda XR250 BAJA: speedometer side first, the distance collar, and checking the bearings are parallel with a calliper (80 mm with the axle torqued).

After spotting my G650GS chain flapping on a 360-degree camera, I checked the slack (35 to 45 mm on the centre stand) and went over chain adjustment: 19/24 mm sockets, Torx tension bolts, swingarm scales and 100 Nm axle torque.