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Honda XR250 BAJA Front Brake Pad Replacement: Cleaning the Pistons and Managing the Fluid Level

Hello everyone.

Today I'm showing how I replaced the front brake pads on my Honda XR250 BAJA (the Japan-market XR250 / MD30).

A note on maintenance work: Brake work is critical to your safety on the road. This article is a record of maintenance based on my own experience, and I can't guarantee that it is accurate or safe.

Preparation: the XR250 BAJA on a stand for the front brake pad change

I work on the BAJA with it on a stand.
You can also do the job on the side stand.

Checking how much brake pad is left with the caliper still on the bike

It's a bit hard to see, but this is checking the remaining pad thickness with the caliper still on the bike.

The front brake caliper on the XR250 BAJA

First, I locate the brake caliper and get started.

Removing the DRC stainless brake pad pin, which replaced the original pin that tends to seize

First, I remove the brake pad pin.
This pad pin is a DRC part, not the original.
The original pad pin has a cap with a slotted (flat-head) screw over the hex socket. That slotted cap tends to seize, so I replaced it with the DRC pin.

The pad pin removed, before taking the old pads out of the caliper

The pad pin is out.

The caliper with the pad pin removed; the pads slide out from below

The pads slide straight out from below.

The worn old brake pads with no grooves left

When I checked the pad thickness, the grooves had gone and the pads were quite thin.

The worn old brake pads, showing they had been contacting the disc at an angle

This is the side of the pads that contacts the brake disc.
The top pad has no groove left, and the bottom pad's groove is almost gone. Also, the groove remains in some places but not others, which shows the pads had been contacting the disc at an angle.

New Daytona Golden Pad χ brake pads

Here are the new pads.
They're Daytona (a Japanese brand) Golden Pad χ, and the packaging is designed so the pads don't rub against each other. A nicely made product.

Comparing the worn old pads with the new Daytona Golden Pad χ

I also transfer the parts on the back of the pads.

Covering the area round the front master cylinder with rags

Now I check the brake fluid level.
I take the lid off the front master cylinder.
Brake fluid attacks paint and other surfaces, so I cover the area round it with rags.

The front master cylinder with the lid and diaphragm removed to check the fluid level

I remove the diaphragm.

Drawing out a little brake fluid with a dropper so it won't overflow when the pistons are pushed back

This time I'm replacing worn pads with new ones.
Because the new pads are thicker, the caliper pistons get pushed back.
As the pistons are pushed back, the fluid in the caliper returns to the master cylinder, which can make it overflow.
So at this stage, I draw out a little brake fluid with a dropper.

The brake caliper removed from the bike, with the pistons pushed well out

Back to the caliper.
I remove the caliper.

The caliper pistons after cleaning

Because the pads were worn, the caliper pistons were pushed quite a long way out.
The photo above was taken after cleaning.
The BAJA's pistons have been replaced with Kashima-coated ones, so a light scrub with a brush was enough to remove the dirt.

Turning the piston with a tool to clean all the way round it

I use a tool to turn each piston and clean all the way round it.

The dirt removed from the caliper and pistons

The photo above shows the dirt that came off the caliper and pistons.
There was quite a lot of it, which, embarrassingly, shows I'd been skipping maintenance.

Pushing the caliper pistons back to make room for the new pads

Now I push the clean pistons back.
I'm pushing with one hand for the photo, but you need to push both pistons back together; if you push one back, the other one pops out.

The caliper pistons pushed back

The pistons pushed back.

The fluid level in the master cylinder before pushing the pistons back

Now I check the fluid level in the master cylinder.
The photo above shows the fluid level before pushing the pistons back.

The fluid level in the master cylinder after pushing the pistons back

And this photo shows the level after pushing the pistons back.
It's hard to see, but the fluid level has risen.
That's why I drew some fluid out with a dropper at the start.

Fitting the new Daytona Golden Pad χ into the caliper

At last, I can fit the new pads into the caliper.

The new pads fitted in the caliper

The new pads are in!

The caliper with the new pads fitted

I put the caliper back on the bike.

Refitting the caliper to the bike

Right now the caliper pistons are pushed back. Squeeze the brake lever several times until the pads touch the disc, and always make sure pressure builds up (this is easy to forget).

Squeezing the brake lever several times to check that pressure builds up

Once that's done, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder again. If it's low, top it up.

Checking the brake fluid level in the master cylinder

Once the level is right, refit the diaphragm, inner lid and outer lid.

Fitting the caliper to the bike and tightening the bolts to the specified torque

Fit the caliper to the bike and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

While doing this, I tighten the bolts while pushing the caliper in the direction the disc turns, to get as close as possible to how the caliper moves when you brake while riding.

Tightening the caliper bolts while pushing in the direction of disc rotation

Finally, I tighten the bolt that holds the brake hose.

That's the job done.

I accept no responsibility for any accident, damage to your vehicle or injury that results from working with reference to this article. Please always do the work at your own risk. If you feel even slightly unsure, don't push yourself; I strongly recommend asking a professional motorcycle shop.

I explain how I cleaned the brake caliper pistons in this article.

How to Clean and Work a Motorcycle Rear Brake Piston (BMW G650GS)

How I cleaned and worked the rear brake caliper piston on my BMW G650GS: pushing it out with the pedal, wiping it with Kimwipes, turning it with piston pliers, Metal Rubber, and safety checks afterwards.

-maintenance, XR-BAJA